Kerry from Derry

Early the next morning.....and I mean early, we dragged our sorry bodies out of bed, hauled ourselves back over to the ferry and slept soundly for the 1 hr crossing back to Bluff (the sea was a bit bigger this time but I don't think anyone really noticed due to the sleep deprivation.....) where we made our way back to Invercargill to pick up the others - Mike our genius driver came up with the idea of ringing in a breakfast order to the hostel cafe and lo and behold - bacon and egg sandwiches on arrival! Now that's what you call service!

So feeling much more human we jumped back on the bus to make our way along the southern coast to the remote Catlin's wilderness area where we would take in a petrified forest (yep I really did say that - a really scared forest!). OK, so let me explain that a bit more: Curio Bay (where the petrified forest is) is a 'natural and historical highlight of the Catlins'. The bay's petrified forest is composed of subtropical kauri (the type of tree, almost extinct now because us Europeans, ie: the English, Dutch & French mainly when we arrived cut down most of it to build boats with) which fell around 150 million years ago, and is now entombed in the rock. The bark of some trees is amazingly still visible. You can see the occasional log lying on its side although it is now rock but the main thing is that it looks like the trees have been felled and its just the fossilised stumps left - very bizarre. And all this on the shoreline with waves crashing in making quite a spectacle of themselves - if I was in a more pensive mood I would suggest this as a good place to go and have a think if you're in a bad mood - the waves crashing onto the rocks has an almost hypnotic effect, but then I've always loved the sea and watching waves crash onto the rocks as my friends from home can attest to!

The next stop along this beautiful wilderness was I believe a little place called Nugget Point which according to the tourist literature is one of the unequivocal highlights of the Catlins Coast. So rather than me wax lyrical here's what they say, 'An easy 15-minute stroll from the road leads you up towards the lighthouse which adorns the point - built in 1869, it is now unused.

Below you are the pebbly, rocky coasts skirted by thick seaweed and an ideal playground for some of Southland's seals. The seals bask in rock pools and can play on the rugged outcrops unbothered - some are obviously very young and as small as kittens. The point also plays host to sea lions and occasionally hoiho, New Zealand's endangered yellow eyed penguin, throughout the year.

The view from this vantage point is spectacular, topped off by the startlingly azure colour of the water, which runs around much of the Catlins coastline. The vivid tones of green and blue sea which run the length of this region could easily have you mistaking Southland's shoreline for the Pacific or Mediterranean.'

Sounds pretty cool eh? Well, yes it was, although with the sky looking a bit ominous and the wind whipping up a frenzy I can't really identify with the comparison to the Med. I can however agree with the bevvy of wildlife, in particular sea lions and seals - could have stayed there for hours watching them but alas the clock was ticking and it was time to head on again.

Next stop was Tautuku Bay which is a complete comparison to the rugged coast we had seen so far - shaped like a horse shoe the bay is apparently common with hector dolphins who like to play in the waves, the sand is of the soft, golden variety and the surrounding views arn't too shabby either - apparently its really popular for swimming but due to the weather no-one was volunteering to get wet, still, a nice place to stop off for lunch and get the sand between the toes.

Back on the bus again and on to Dunedin through the vast farmlands of Southland - sheep aplenty and a few ideas for that nights dinner! We were supposed to arrive in Dunedin in time for a tour of New Zealands most famous brewery - Speights, but alas time conspired to mess up that particular plan and left us about an hour late.....so no free beer - BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Anyway Dunedin (just like Invercargill) was settled by the Scottish and its literal translation is the same as Edinburgh - think its something like town on the hill but I'm sure the Scots amongst you will correct me if I got that wrong. It even has a statue of Robbie Burns in the centre of the town or Octagen - apparently poeple in Dunedin and Invercargill have different accents from the rest of the kiwis in that they they slightly roll theirs or elongate them or something which is a kickback to the Scottish heritage - can't say I really noticed myself...ho hum. Anyhoo - the town or city is definitely worth a visit, very relaxing vibe to it, people are friendly, no big high rises, lots of little cafes, shops/boutiques & not a carbon copy of every other city/town in the world full of American chain stores.

Our accomodation that night was pretty unusual too - apparently the oldest hotel in Dunedin (and you could tell) but at least it wasn't dorm rooms again, this was a twin share with an en-suite - moving upmarket you see!

By now you'll have seen a slight pattern emerging.......yes you've guessed it - the sun had gone done and it was time to retire to the bar where a few hours were pleasantly passed chatting to complete strangers met at the bar swopping stories of travel in far flung places - well basically it was me sitting there listening to some old boy telling stories of when he used to work in Ireland & England - well I had to let him didn't I?? Apparently keeps the mind sharp at a certain age!

Dunedin is also home to New Zealand's steepest street, Baldwin Street, it is reputed by the Guinness Book of Records as being the steepest street in the world. 38% gradient = 1 in 1.266 and god did I feel it! But it had to be done didn't it.....

So that was Dunedin - definitely worth the visit and if I was considering living in New Zealand it would be up there as somewhere to hang my hat for a little while.

So feeling well rested after the night of luxury that is a bed in a room all of my own it was time to head to the most southern part of New Zealand - Invercargill (on the mainland) and for me over to Stewart Island which is truly the most southern tip - well I'd been to the northern tip so I had to make it to the bottom as well didn't I!

The journey itself was pretty boring - express journey so we could make it to Bluff in time for the ferry. About 10 of us decided to go over to Stewart Island with the rest opting to stay in Invercargill and have to say I'm really glad I decided to go. My impressions of Invercargill were not too good - industrial city with not a lot happening, turns out my impression was right, the next day no-one had anything even slightly positive to say about it so if you're over I'd give it a miss if I were you!

Now then Stewart Island......a visit to Stewart Island means that you have to hop onto a ferry and travel across the Foveaux Strait to get there and it is notorious for being a really rough ride.....happy to report that for me it wasn't although I think I had my sea legs well established by then - an hour later we arrived and that meant a quick dash to the pub to check in (yep - we were staying at the pub!) and to my delight I once again got a room all to myself and this time with a double bed, as well as an additional single which unfortunately I couldn't use at the same time (simple pleasures you see). 2 nights in a row where I had my own room - sweet Jesus - could it get any better??????? Well the simple answer is yes - of course it could.

The activity of the day was to be sea fishing and although you're probably bored of me saying this in previous reports I really enjoyed it - in fact one of my favourite things that I've done since being here. So got to the boat and got kitted out in some rather attractive white wellies or gum boots as they say over here, and a fresh smelling plastic apron - if you can't quite picture it imagine any films you've seen where carving up a person is involved and you'll get the picture.....and very attractive I looked too. Of course the other accessory was a few tinnies to celebrate what was surely going to be a record catch.

Anyway on to the fishing - wasn't quite what I was expecting, there was no rods involved. Basically it was 2 lengths of rope tied together, the first has 2 huge hooks which were baited with cut up bits of fish, and the second was attached to the first and was basically what you would have on the reel on a normal fishing rod. How did it work? Well the captain obviously has a few favoured spots where he's had success in the past so off we go and then he turns off the engine, drops anchor and his mate proceeds to show us the high tec version of fishing.....basically you chuck the line over the side and it drops to the ocean floor - you pull the line up a couple of inches and then you wait....when you feel a tug on the line you jerk it upwards as fast as you can and then pull the line in as fast as you can, if you're lucky there'll be a fish on the other end - and yes, I did manage to catch a few! None as big as the one that got away of course - seriously one escaped when the top hook got caught on the side of the boat and the slipperly little bugger made a dash for it. Again I have photographic evidence so will post it at some stage in the future and you can all gasp in astonishment as my hunter gatherer skills. The fish of the day was blue cod and it was delicious - nothing like eating what you caught for dinner!

The guys from the boat gave us the use of their house to cook up a storm when we were done which was extremely good of them and I took on roll of chefess for the evening - which was rewarded later by beer after beer from grateful recipients of my perfectly cooked cod, well worth it I'd say.

Stewart Island itself is beautiful - there are only about 400 people living on the island and 85% of it is classified as National Park so its pretty much unspoilt. There are no animals on the island as it is a bird sanctuary and its pretty much the only place in New Zealand where you shouldn't have too much trouble spotting the native kiwi which is almost extinct in the mainland. There is rainforest, lots of walking trails, watersports galore, deserted beaches, beautiful sunsets and some of the friendliest locals I'd come across - no trouble giving my time here a 10/10! (Although make sure you have the insect repellant with you - the sandflys are little buggers).

OK - so onwards and upwards....literally! The title to this one is a little misleading as it was basically a journey into one of the most scenically amazing places In New Zealand - the wonder that is Milford Sound (look this one up on google for some piccies and you'll see what I mean).

The journey there dosen't disappoint either - one of the most scenically amazing drives in the world. It involves travelling around Lake Wakatipu, passing staggering waterfalls, and a magnificent descent from the Homer Tunnel 3,000 feet to Milford Sound at sea level.

Milford Sound is also home to one of the world's top walks (takes 4 days and involves a bit of roughing it....you have to camp and you also have to carry all your gear with you so its pretty tough going but apparently well worth the effort - again something on my go back and do list).

I took the easy option and did a 2 hour boat trip instead and although no effort was required it was also well worth it!

Here's what some others have said about it (slightly more eloquent that perhaps I can manage at this hour on a Monday morning......):

“For thousands of feet upwards the eye looks upon straight cut rocky frontages, not worn smooth by time, or by wind or water, but as sharply defined and as fresh looking in all respects as if riven asunder but yesterday by the stupendous wedges of Titanic Masons.“ James Hingston 1883

The Maori were the first to attribute the creation of the fiords to a “titanic mason”, Tute Rakiwhanoa who hued out the steep sided valleys with keen edged adzes. No other explanation seems to fit, as it is impossible to comprehend the sheer breadth of geological events that created this seemingly perfect sculpture, as sheer cliffs rise vertically upward from the ocean.

Wet or fine Milford is incredibly grand. Mitre Peak magnetises photographers, and the fiord’s sheer cliffs excite both admiration and apprehension.

So there you go - think that about covers it! The only way to truly understand is of course to go and see it for yourselves and I wholeheartedly recommend that you do.

A few hours later it was time to beat a reluctant retreat and move on to Ta Anau where we would stay for the night and here a treat awaited us! We all had our own rooms - SHOCK, HORROR, GASP! First time that had happened in a long long time and boy was it good - no trying to sleep with the sweet aroma of other peoples smelly shoes, being woken up at regular intervals in the middle of the night with drunken idiots falling over themselves trying not to make any noise (it never works - trust me I'm an expert....), trying to lull yourself to sleep with the sweet sound of soft snoring - I think you get the basic idea here! So pretty much an early night for all to go and spend some 'me' time with ourselves and very pleasant it was too (as well as much needed).

Te Anau itself is a pretty little spot situated on the edge of Lake Te Anau - not much there to be honest but its a gateway to one of the most spectacular places in New Zealand so that's pretty good in my book.

OK - so after a weeks break to get the old creative juices flowing I'm back to regale you with more awe inspiring tales of my journey so far (either that or I got lazy or maybe my few remaining brain cells were destroyed by the recent Paddy's Day celebrations.....I'll leave you to make up your minds which is the more likely)

So after a night on the beach it was time to bid a fond farewell to Haast and make our way on to Queenstown - the adventure capital of NZ. Basically any adrenalin sport you can think off is available here and chances are were probably invented here too!

Our journey there took us over Haast Pass through the mountains and on through Mount Aspiring National Park which again afforded us spectacular views before reaching the lakes of Hawea and Wanaka. Our driver managed to fool a few of the people on the bus by pointing out the 'Whale tracks' in Lake Wanaka prompting a few people to glue their faces to the window trying to spot the whales in the fresh water lake.......I hasten to add that I was not one of them! Got days of amusement out of that one - you know when you just can't let it go!

Anyway we stopped off in Wanaka where it was time to say goodbye to some good friends made along the way as they were hopping off and I was staying on, sad but by now I was well used to it. Wanaka itself is a pretty little town set right on the Lake as you'd expect by the name - the sun was shining, the shorts were on and the locals were shielding their eyes from the bright white light reflecting off my legs! After a couple of hours chilling and eating whatever I could get my hands on (no breakfast, early start) we made our way onto Queenstown via a stop off at the world famous A J Hackett bungy site which is situated in the Kawarau gorge. It is where the first commercial bungy site in the world opened and its pretty cool - a 43m jump off a bridge plumetting towards the sparkling blue water and enough rocks to give you a graze or 2 should something go wrong.....about 7 of us had a go but unfortunately I wasn't one of them - didn't want to chance my knobbly knees or dodgy back - it wasn't, I reiterate IT WASN'T that my self-preservation instincts kicked in and told me there was absolutely no sane reason to go jumping off a bridge at all! Ah well there’s plenty of time left should I decide to actually go for it.....

Half an hour later we got to Queenstown and let the party begin!

I don't need to let you know what went on in Queenstown - its worldwide reputation as a party town speaks for itself, lets just say it didn't disappoint. Unfortunately for one of our lot a smashed elbow resulting from an attempted somersault of a wall at 3.30am meant a trip to the hospital and an early return to Holland!

He'll be remembering that one for a while (I believe he's still having corrective surgery....)

Queenstown is also a pretty good place to just chill out - the Lake is beautiful as are the Botanical Gardens - in fact you can play a 9 hole frisbee golf game around the park, and I should know......I was quietly lying in the grass minding my own business reading a book when WHACK I got a frisbee in the head! Red mist descended around the eyes and the frisbee ended up a long way away from the direction of the owners of said frisbee.....ah well they looked like they needed the exercise anyway. They apologised - I swore mildly and turned the air a more vivid shade of blue!

Also took a trip up on the Gondola (cable car) to the top of Bob's Peak which is the highest point to view the city (the gondola is supposedly the highest and steepest in the southern hemisphere) where the views were once again stunning - views over the lake and surrounding mountains, once again we were treated to a beautiful hot clear day. Also a good spot to watch the mad fools jumping off the biggest bungy in the world as well as paragliding down the Peak; there's also a 850m luge track which again provided some entertainment.... as well as a few scuffed knees and torn trousers for those brave/stupid enough to go down it at full speed (approx 95kph), definitely worth the $20 odd dollars that it cost to go up (and sure beats walking!) So that was Queenstown - definitely somewhere to visit again before I leave, preferably with some skis!

We left Franz Josef around 4 in the afternoon and began the journey to Haast which to be honest wasn't that far away.

On the way we stopped of at the Fox Glacier and Knights Point to get out and stretch the old legs as well as having the opportunity for a few more photographs - which of course are spectacular (you'll just have to take my word for it..).

Tonights accommodation was a lodge set in the rainforest by Haast and near the beach. So after a quick dinner and via a stop off in the local pub to grab a few beers we made our way to a small deserted beach where we proceeded to build a bonfire and while the evening away having the craic! Building the fire was rather amusing I have to say - there was a boy scout who thought he would start with twigs and then build the fire around that.....well us girls diagreed so we built a big one - threw some scrub in the middle, lit it and lo and behold there was a cracker bonfire - needless to say everyone else (bar the scout) were very impressed and tried not to snigger behind their hands at Mr Dib Dab Dob or whatever it is they say!

Gradually the lights went out and we were treated to a completely cloudless sky with stars as far as the eye could see. In fact a few of us headed down the beach and lying back picked out the constellations we knew and had a competition to see who could spot the most shooting stars (a few satellites in there to try and trick us too!). This night is one that holds some of my fondest memories - cloudless sky, big bonfire and good company, what else do you need?