New Zealand

So feeling well rested after the night of luxury that is a bed in a room all of my own it was time to head to the most southern part of New Zealand - Invercargill (on the mainland) and for me over to Stewart Island which is truly the most southern tip - well I'd been to the northern tip so I had to make it to the bottom as well didn't I!

The journey itself was pretty boring - express journey so we could make it to Bluff in time for the ferry. About 10 of us decided to go over to Stewart Island with the rest opting to stay in Invercargill and have to say I'm really glad I decided to go. My impressions of Invercargill were not too good - industrial city with not a lot happening, turns out my impression was right, the next day no-one had anything even slightly positive to say about it so if you're over I'd give it a miss if I were you!

Now then Stewart Island......a visit to Stewart Island means that you have to hop onto a ferry and travel across the Foveaux Strait to get there and it is notorious for being a really rough ride.....happy to report that for me it wasn't although I think I had my sea legs well established by then - an hour later we arrived and that meant a quick dash to the pub to check in (yep - we were staying at the pub!) and to my delight I once again got a room all to myself and this time with a double bed, as well as an additional single which unfortunately I couldn't use at the same time (simple pleasures you see). 2 nights in a row where I had my own room - sweet Jesus - could it get any better??????? Well the simple answer is yes - of course it could.

The activity of the day was to be sea fishing and although you're probably bored of me saying this in previous reports I really enjoyed it - in fact one of my favourite things that I've done since being here. So got to the boat and got kitted out in some rather attractive white wellies or gum boots as they say over here, and a fresh smelling plastic apron - if you can't quite picture it imagine any films you've seen where carving up a person is involved and you'll get the picture.....and very attractive I looked too. Of course the other accessory was a few tinnies to celebrate what was surely going to be a record catch.

Anyway on to the fishing - wasn't quite what I was expecting, there was no rods involved. Basically it was 2 lengths of rope tied together, the first has 2 huge hooks which were baited with cut up bits of fish, and the second was attached to the first and was basically what you would have on the reel on a normal fishing rod. How did it work? Well the captain obviously has a few favoured spots where he's had success in the past so off we go and then he turns off the engine, drops anchor and his mate proceeds to show us the high tec version of fishing.....basically you chuck the line over the side and it drops to the ocean floor - you pull the line up a couple of inches and then you wait....when you feel a tug on the line you jerk it upwards as fast as you can and then pull the line in as fast as you can, if you're lucky there'll be a fish on the other end - and yes, I did manage to catch a few! None as big as the one that got away of course - seriously one escaped when the top hook got caught on the side of the boat and the slipperly little bugger made a dash for it. Again I have photographic evidence so will post it at some stage in the future and you can all gasp in astonishment as my hunter gatherer skills. The fish of the day was blue cod and it was delicious - nothing like eating what you caught for dinner!

The guys from the boat gave us the use of their house to cook up a storm when we were done which was extremely good of them and I took on roll of chefess for the evening - which was rewarded later by beer after beer from grateful recipients of my perfectly cooked cod, well worth it I'd say.

Stewart Island itself is beautiful - there are only about 400 people living on the island and 85% of it is classified as National Park so its pretty much unspoilt. There are no animals on the island as it is a bird sanctuary and its pretty much the only place in New Zealand where you shouldn't have too much trouble spotting the native kiwi which is almost extinct in the mainland. There is rainforest, lots of walking trails, watersports galore, deserted beaches, beautiful sunsets and some of the friendliest locals I'd come across - no trouble giving my time here a 10/10! (Although make sure you have the insect repellant with you - the sandflys are little buggers).

OK - so onwards and upwards....literally! The title to this one is a little misleading as it was basically a journey into one of the most scenically amazing places In New Zealand - the wonder that is Milford Sound (look this one up on google for some piccies and you'll see what I mean).

The journey there dosen't disappoint either - one of the most scenically amazing drives in the world. It involves travelling around Lake Wakatipu, passing staggering waterfalls, and a magnificent descent from the Homer Tunnel 3,000 feet to Milford Sound at sea level.

Milford Sound is also home to one of the world's top walks (takes 4 days and involves a bit of roughing it....you have to camp and you also have to carry all your gear with you so its pretty tough going but apparently well worth the effort - again something on my go back and do list).

I took the easy option and did a 2 hour boat trip instead and although no effort was required it was also well worth it!

Here's what some others have said about it (slightly more eloquent that perhaps I can manage at this hour on a Monday morning......):

“For thousands of feet upwards the eye looks upon straight cut rocky frontages, not worn smooth by time, or by wind or water, but as sharply defined and as fresh looking in all respects as if riven asunder but yesterday by the stupendous wedges of Titanic Masons.“ James Hingston 1883

The Maori were the first to attribute the creation of the fiords to a “titanic mason”, Tute Rakiwhanoa who hued out the steep sided valleys with keen edged adzes. No other explanation seems to fit, as it is impossible to comprehend the sheer breadth of geological events that created this seemingly perfect sculpture, as sheer cliffs rise vertically upward from the ocean.

Wet or fine Milford is incredibly grand. Mitre Peak magnetises photographers, and the fiord’s sheer cliffs excite both admiration and apprehension.

So there you go - think that about covers it! The only way to truly understand is of course to go and see it for yourselves and I wholeheartedly recommend that you do.

A few hours later it was time to beat a reluctant retreat and move on to Ta Anau where we would stay for the night and here a treat awaited us! We all had our own rooms - SHOCK, HORROR, GASP! First time that had happened in a long long time and boy was it good - no trying to sleep with the sweet aroma of other peoples smelly shoes, being woken up at regular intervals in the middle of the night with drunken idiots falling over themselves trying not to make any noise (it never works - trust me I'm an expert....), trying to lull yourself to sleep with the sweet sound of soft snoring - I think you get the basic idea here! So pretty much an early night for all to go and spend some 'me' time with ourselves and very pleasant it was too (as well as much needed).

Te Anau itself is a pretty little spot situated on the edge of Lake Te Anau - not much there to be honest but its a gateway to one of the most spectacular places in New Zealand so that's pretty good in my book.

OK - so after a weeks break to get the old creative juices flowing I'm back to regale you with more awe inspiring tales of my journey so far (either that or I got lazy or maybe my few remaining brain cells were destroyed by the recent Paddy's Day celebrations.....I'll leave you to make up your minds which is the more likely)

So after a night on the beach it was time to bid a fond farewell to Haast and make our way on to Queenstown - the adventure capital of NZ. Basically any adrenalin sport you can think off is available here and chances are were probably invented here too!

Our journey there took us over Haast Pass through the mountains and on through Mount Aspiring National Park which again afforded us spectacular views before reaching the lakes of Hawea and Wanaka. Our driver managed to fool a few of the people on the bus by pointing out the 'Whale tracks' in Lake Wanaka prompting a few people to glue their faces to the window trying to spot the whales in the fresh water lake.......I hasten to add that I was not one of them! Got days of amusement out of that one - you know when you just can't let it go!

Anyway we stopped off in Wanaka where it was time to say goodbye to some good friends made along the way as they were hopping off and I was staying on, sad but by now I was well used to it. Wanaka itself is a pretty little town set right on the Lake as you'd expect by the name - the sun was shining, the shorts were on and the locals were shielding their eyes from the bright white light reflecting off my legs! After a couple of hours chilling and eating whatever I could get my hands on (no breakfast, early start) we made our way onto Queenstown via a stop off at the world famous A J Hackett bungy site which is situated in the Kawarau gorge. It is where the first commercial bungy site in the world opened and its pretty cool - a 43m jump off a bridge plumetting towards the sparkling blue water and enough rocks to give you a graze or 2 should something go wrong.....about 7 of us had a go but unfortunately I wasn't one of them - didn't want to chance my knobbly knees or dodgy back - it wasn't, I reiterate IT WASN'T that my self-preservation instincts kicked in and told me there was absolutely no sane reason to go jumping off a bridge at all! Ah well there’s plenty of time left should I decide to actually go for it.....

Half an hour later we got to Queenstown and let the party begin!

I don't need to let you know what went on in Queenstown - its worldwide reputation as a party town speaks for itself, lets just say it didn't disappoint. Unfortunately for one of our lot a smashed elbow resulting from an attempted somersault of a wall at 3.30am meant a trip to the hospital and an early return to Holland!

He'll be remembering that one for a while (I believe he's still having corrective surgery....)

Queenstown is also a pretty good place to just chill out - the Lake is beautiful as are the Botanical Gardens - in fact you can play a 9 hole frisbee golf game around the park, and I should know......I was quietly lying in the grass minding my own business reading a book when WHACK I got a frisbee in the head! Red mist descended around the eyes and the frisbee ended up a long way away from the direction of the owners of said frisbee.....ah well they looked like they needed the exercise anyway. They apologised - I swore mildly and turned the air a more vivid shade of blue!

Also took a trip up on the Gondola (cable car) to the top of Bob's Peak which is the highest point to view the city (the gondola is supposedly the highest and steepest in the southern hemisphere) where the views were once again stunning - views over the lake and surrounding mountains, once again we were treated to a beautiful hot clear day. Also a good spot to watch the mad fools jumping off the biggest bungy in the world as well as paragliding down the Peak; there's also a 850m luge track which again provided some entertainment.... as well as a few scuffed knees and torn trousers for those brave/stupid enough to go down it at full speed (approx 95kph), definitely worth the $20 odd dollars that it cost to go up (and sure beats walking!) So that was Queenstown - definitely somewhere to visit again before I leave, preferably with some skis!

We left Franz Josef around 4 in the afternoon and began the journey to Haast which to be honest wasn't that far away.

On the way we stopped of at the Fox Glacier and Knights Point to get out and stretch the old legs as well as having the opportunity for a few more photographs - which of course are spectacular (you'll just have to take my word for it..).

Tonights accommodation was a lodge set in the rainforest by Haast and near the beach. So after a quick dinner and via a stop off in the local pub to grab a few beers we made our way to a small deserted beach where we proceeded to build a bonfire and while the evening away having the craic! Building the fire was rather amusing I have to say - there was a boy scout who thought he would start with twigs and then build the fire around that.....well us girls diagreed so we built a big one - threw some scrub in the middle, lit it and lo and behold there was a cracker bonfire - needless to say everyone else (bar the scout) were very impressed and tried not to snigger behind their hands at Mr Dib Dab Dob or whatever it is they say!

Gradually the lights went out and we were treated to a completely cloudless sky with stars as far as the eye could see. In fact a few of us headed down the beach and lying back picked out the constellations we knew and had a competition to see who could spot the most shooting stars (a few satellites in there to try and trick us too!). This night is one that holds some of my fondest memories - cloudless sky, big bonfire and good company, what else do you need?

Oh my God! The pain......the pain (that was me after the celebrations when it was time to get up and head off again on the journey to Franz Josef).

But sure enough we all managed to drag ourselves out of our comas and on to the bus by 7 (lots of miles to be covered today). Today the destination was Franz Josef - one of the 2 main glaciers in NZ, the other being the Fox Glacier which is just down the road or 'around the corner' as us Irish might say - for the rest of you that means a good hour or two down the road. I don't recall much conversation on the bus that morning - just the sweet music of a snoring symphony with the odd groan thrown in.

The journey took us past the by now familiar stunning scenery of the West Coast and on to a town called Hokitika which has one of the best jade carving centres in NZ (apparently the only place where you can carve yourself for free if you're lucky enough to find a bit of jade). And before I get any complaints I don't literally mean carving yourself - read on to the end of the sentence and it becomes clear! Lunch consisted of the healing properties of a pie or two and a big mug of tea - right as rain again and raring to go.....back to sleep.

A few hours later we arrived in Franz Josef - the town itself is tiny but my god the scenery is amazing (was surprised that I hadn't been sceneried out by now). Again Franz Josef is one of the big tourist things to do in NZ and something which you will always see in the guidebooks or ads if you've ever seen any. I had decided that I was going to do the heli-hike the next day so went off to pay for that and began to get a wee bit excited, I had never been in a helicopter before or on a glacier for that matter so this was going to be something to remember.

Below is again something which I have plagerised just for information purposes - it will give you an idea as to what the glacier is all about:

The spectacular Franz Josef Glacier descends to just 250 metres above sea level amidst the greenery and lushness of a temperate rainforest.

Of all the accessible temperate glaciers in New Zealand, the Franz Josef Glacier is easily the steepest and fastest moving.

While many glaciers world-wide have been retreating, the Franz Josef Glacier still flows almost to sea level, through a temperate rainforest of ancient podocarp trees and other evergreen species.

This combination of ice and temperate rainforest is a unique feature of New Zealand's glacier country, and is an ecosystem found nowhere else in the world.

South Westland is situated at 43.5 degrees south, an equivalent latitude to the south of France. Cannes, for example, is the same distance from the coast as Franz Josef, with mountains of similar altitudes. Obviously there are no glaciers that extend down to sea level in France, so why does it happen here?

Running through Franz Josef is the Alpine Fault. Along this faultline the Southern Alps have been pushed up, and continue to rise in close proximity to the ocean. The weather that flows on to the West Coast is forced to rise over the Southern Alps, thereby cooling and dropping most of its moisture as rain and snow. This process causes up to 30 metres of snow to fall on the neve (or catchment area of the glacier), every year.

Snow that is compacted on the neve forms blue glacier ice that is funnelled down the Waiho Valley. The ice flows under its own momentum, forming a 'river of ice'. Although the terminal face of the glacier is continually melting, this is replaced by glacier ice flowing down from the neve. This is aided by basal sliding, caused by a layer of water beneath the glacier which is formed by the weight of the ice pushing against the valley floor.

The glacier slides forward at rates up to 10 times faster than most valley glaciers, presenting the visitor with a spectacular and unique icefall of crevasses, pinnacles, ice caves and canyons.

OK - I hope you'll remember that!

So on to the heli-hike the next day......it was amazing! You get kitted out in talonz (claws that attach to special heavy duty leather boots) which are meant to keep you upright on the ice, and of course the good old sunscreen.

So on we get to the helicopter and away we went - the pilot swooping left to right and down close to the glacier, don't mind saying I had the old stomach in mouth feeling a couple of times but that was just the pilot having a laugh with us virgins. Helicopters are sooooooooo much better than aeroplanes.

Anyway, down we go onto the glacier and land about 3/4 of the way up - next on the agenda was a 2 hour hike around the ice. Our guide led us up and over and into parts of the ice which you'll never experience on a normal snow covered mountain - carrying an axe to cut steps in the ice so we could make our way across particularly tough bits. We did have a girl with us who cried the whole way as she was so scared - bloody pain in the backside - meant we had to move a lot slower - and then we had the ones at the back who didn't keep up because they were so snap happy and then blamed the guide for leaving them behind (they were about 30 secs behind the rest of us) but of course the moaning was because they too were peeing in their panties!

The glacier itself was truly beautiful - blue ice, blue pools and blue ice caves which you can climb through, made for a pretty picture or too let me tell you - I will try and post some at some stage if I can, promise!

Again something which I would highly recommend! Oh - and the helicopter on the way down was just as good as on the way up.