Nov 2006

After 3 weeks in BsAs it was time to head on and I have to admit I did spend a couple of days pondering what route I was going to take. I decided to head across the country to Mendoza, centre of Argentina´s wine growing region.

So time for my first experience of the famous Argentina bus system and pretty impressive it was too. There are 4 classes of travel: super cama - basically a full stretch bed/seat where you get to lie flat; cama - not quite flat but not upright either, flat enough that you can sleep on your side; semi-cama - bit more upright but comfortable enough to sleep and finally normal which I don´t think I need to explain! For this journey I opted for cama - a mere 20 pesos extra and as I was going to be on the bus overnight for a 13 hour journey I figured it was worth it. I think the only bad thing I would say is that the food is pretty disgusting - powdered spuds and some non-descipt milanesa meat which I think was supposed to be chicken.....maybe...

Anyway got there at 8.00 in the morning and made my way to the Dama Juana Hostel, excellent place to hang out and meet some new peeps and get this it even had a swimming pool - fancy eh? Mendoza city made a nice change from the hectic BsAs, tree-lined avenues, enforced siestas (can make shopping a pain in the backside), street cafes, plazas a-plenty and an altogether more relaxed atmosphere.

I decided to get stuck right in and spent the afternoon doing a wine tour although I ended up feeling a little cheated, for something advertised as a wine tour what the hell were they doing taking us to a olive oil refinery eh????? Thankfully only the one olive oil joint, the other 2 places were bodega´s, one a pretty big place and the other a small family run vineyard - both had their own merits but preferred the smaller one myself, believe it was called the Don Juan Winery or something similar. From speaking to others though probably best to do it by yourself and either have a designated driver or hire bikes and do it that way! Not as expensive and no restrictive time lines (or annoying Aussie woman on the bus complaining loudly that everyone speaks spanish....imagine that - speaking spanish in their own country, how VERY dare they! The most amusing bit though was that she had bought an apartment in Buenos Aires to holiday every year - what??) Anyway I digress....

That evening I bumped into a guy I had met in BsAs and after a beer or 2 to cool down we went off to dinner with another few guys we had met at the hostel - Roc from Barcelona and Frederic from Paris - of course it had to be steak and yet again it was buenisimo.

Next day it was a trip into the mountains and through some spectacular scenery, multi-coloured layered rock formations (just in case you don´t know the mountains are part of the Andes). The trip basically starts in desert territory and ends up in the freezing cold, biting winds and snow about 5km away from the border with Chile !

We made our way to Puente del Inca, an attractive calcareous ochre formation over the Las Cuevas River which has thermal waters. Due to erosion and the damage caused by tourist feet they had closed the crossing over so we were only able to view it from the viewing place across the road but still a pretty nice spot. Next stop was to view the highest peak in the continent - Aconcagua, nicknamed the ´Sentry of America´ and standing at 6962m above sea level. Its a big draw for climbers from all over the world and is apparently pretty challenging....well as you´d expect at that height! We also got to see the statue of Christ the Redeemer which at 4200m above sea level is probably the highest holy statue in the world. An excellent day out and fantastic scenery.

Back at the hostel it was of course time for refreshment and sustenance once again and with my companions of the night before went and found more steak and much more wine - a fine night had by all!

Next day I bumped into another couple of friends made in BsAs and after hiring a car took another trip into the mountains - lot different this time as we only had our own schedule to stick too. We found a delightful little restaurant in a small town that although it wasn´t open she decided to open up just for us - how nice is that eh? Then we found ourselves near the lake and although it is for some reason prohibited the others decided a swim was in order (fricking freezing - water from the mountains and all that.....no way you were getting me in there!) On our way back to the car we did spot someone over the other side shouting at us and waving his arms furiously and wearing what looked suspiciously like an army uniform - time to hightail it out of there! Not content with just the one brush with the law we got pulled over when Yves (the guy driving) decided to take a short cut the wrong way around a roundabout - we got pulled over by the police and some quick talking later were on our way again - much hilarity later we made it back in one piece.

So that was Mendoza or at least my experiences of it - it is also famous for white water rafting, horse-riding, canopy swings-climbing & mountain biking so loads to do on the adrenalin junkie front.

Again I´ll mention a few names just so I don´t forget - Mark, Roc, Frederic, Kate & Kate & Yves.

The time has come for a new beginning - the beginning of a new country and my entry into South America, welcome to Argentina!

So I´ve finally arrived in the place that was caught in my imagination for the last 6 or 7 years and in truth was my main motivation for dropping everything and heading off around the world with not a care in mind. Don´t ask me why - I have no idea, I just had this calling to come here (almost sounds religious eh? My mother would be proud...).

After all the delays in New York I arrived in Buenos Aires on the 5th Oct at 10.00 in the evening, sailed through customs and out into arrivals where my taxi was waiting to ferry me off to Portal del Sur - the hostel that was to be home for the next 2 and a half weeks. Very nice it was too although the fact that they have an in house bar made it very difficult to be self controlled although I think I managed ok on that score - during the week anyway....

Anyway you´re not interested in that bit are ya? On to the actual city itself - a city who´s population is somewhere in the vicinity of 13m souls (one third of the population of Argentina) and is famous for football, tango and great steaks as well as a few other little things. Can you think of any? I´ll let you in on them later if you haven´t fallen asleep reading the first couple of paragraphs.

So first things first - how´s a gal supposed to get around if she doesn´t speak the lingo? Well naturally she has to sign up for some spanish classes (or as in my first weekend use sign language and keep your fingers crossed that what you ordered is something edible, in most cases that was true...although when I got fish back instead of steak it was a bit of a surprise!) Little word on the steak - sublime and very cheap.

I signed up for 2 weeks of classes with a school called IBL situated right in the city centre, only a ten minute walk from my hostel so no worries about having to get up too early to make it to class. In terms of expense Buenos Aires is a bargain place to learn spanish - 20 hrs a week for 360 pesos (around 60 pounds). There are a lot of options too so its a good idea to just ask around, most hostels can point you in the right direction and they´ll almost always have someone who comes in to do 1-2-1 lessons if that´s what you´re after, typically you´ll pay 25 pesos an hour.

My lessons were conducted almost solely in spanish which is a good way to get an ear for the language if somewhat challenging! The class was usually in a group of 5 although slight variations were not uncommon - shared a classroom with people from the States, Germany, Norway and England although when chatting to others during break time it was obvious that there were people form all over the world there - a truly international flavour. I took lessons for 2 weeks and left confident in my ability to converse in the local lingo - of at least being able to order food, buy bus tickets and exchange pleasantries anyhoo!

So apart from studying for the first time in 10 odd years what else is there to do? Well for one thing you can go to a football game and see the passion of the argies for their local boys - and what passion! I´ve never been in an atmostphere like it at a sports event, it was more like being at a U2 concert. I went to see Boca Juniors v Newells Old Boys. All through the game the crowd didn´t stop singing and taunting each other, jumping up and down so much you could feel the terraces shuddering adding to the edgy atmostphere, apparently it was designed that way so you feel the heat of the game coursing through you - although it has to be said that Boca fans are known the world over for their passion - in fact the crowd is called Jugador Numero 12 - Player Number 12, so much is their influence on the visiting team (intimidation) and of course on their own team (encouragement). Suffice to say it was a great experience and one you should definitely consider if you find yourself in BsAs. Oh and Boca won 2-0 just in case you were wondering!

What else? Well as I assume you are aware Eva Peron is buried in BsAs (the lady who inspired Evita) and is buried in Recoleta Cemetary - so thought it was only polite to drop by and say hello as you do. Never mind that it is one of the most ornate cemetaries in the world, nothing to do with that....and boy is it ornate. Its like stepping into an old vampire inspired gothic film - full of old ornate crypts and narrow pathways where you expect someone to jump out at you and yell BOO! But at the same time its serene and very beautiful. Not many people get buried there these days but it still happens occassionally but you do need to have a lot of money to get in there - its probably argentina´s most expensive plot. Definitely worth a visit - and when you´re done walk outside and have a stroll through the market where if the weather is good and it´s a weekend you´ll find a 100 or so arts and crafts stall selling all manner of things and tempting you to part with your cash - word of warning though keep an eye on your wallet at all times, markets are the prime place to get pickpocketed and the professionals in BsAs are particularly skilled at it.

Talking of markets if you find yourself at a loose end on a Sunday pop along to San Telmo where you find all kinds of wierd and wonderful antiques and being the centre of all things tango you´ll usually see a few performances in the square (is it me or do the ladies wear so much make-up they end up looking like drag queens??) They are excellent performers however and it is a pretty sexy dance when its done properly. There are loads of options in the city to watch tango and take lessons although I´ve been told the best idea is to go to a local millonga and watch the ordinary boys and girls going at it - more authentic than what´s put on for the tourists. Haven´t done it yet but going back next week so will definitely do it then.

Talking of dancing.....BsAs is renouned the world over for being a party city, if you´re out before 2.00am you´re considered an old biddy! Although you are allowed to go out to eat dinner around 11 and then of course you hit the clubs after that - the most famous of which is Opera Bay. Of course I had to check it out in the name of research.....arrived at 3am (am I trendy or whaaaa) and boogied the night away until 7 in the morning where it was a stop for breakfast and then home to bed! I do think I´m getting far too old for this though! There are lots of bars and clubs to choose from and again worth getting a recommendation from a local - girls watch out, the boys can be pretty persistant...

Lets see other things......if you go to Plaza de Mayo on a Thursday around 3.30ish you^ll see the Madres de Plaza de Mayo march around the square. The Mothers' association was formed by women who had met each other in the course of trying to find missing sons and daughters, abducted by agents of the Argentine government during the years known as the Dirty War (1976–1983), many of whom were then tortured and killed. The numbers still unaccounted for is estimated at somewhere between 11,000 and 30,000. The Madres estimate the number at 30,000. Pretty harrowing eh?

Palermo is worth a looksee too - one of the richest areas in the city so has lots of nice houses and apartments, etc as well as some really good restaurants and bars and a rather nice park.

I could go on but needless to say if you ever get there yourself you´ll find a city with a lot to offer and endless things to get you occupied. I´m looking forward to going back and seeing what trouble I can get myself into!

Just a quick mention of a few people so I can look back in a few years and remember their names and where I first met them....Carrie & Abran from USA, Dana from Alaska, Graham & Ewan from Scotland, Siri & Brigitte from Norway, Dave from NZ, Catherine from Canberra, Vicky from Manchester, Chris the geordie, the brasilian girls and not forgetting Lili and Sebastian from BsAs.

Well I last left you in the land of 10,000 lakes, now time to move on to the Windy City - Chicago.

As I had become accustomed to my own personal chaffeur service I again was collected from the airport and whisked off to the Diamond B&B in Palatine - thanks Ed! So a week in Chicago.....what´s a girl to do?

Started off by popping into the diner of course for a slap up lunch and then retired to the patio at the B&B to catch some rays and fulfill the requirements for my daily homage to Bacchaus....who was most pleased by my devout attentions! Fully sated there was then the opportunity to watch thee video - of Scott ad Amy´s wedding of course and what a video and consequently wedding it appeared to be!

The next day Ed and myself headed into town to be tourists where we took a architectural boat tour around the city - very interesting and highly recommended. Made for a better trip actually knowing what you´re looking at, also gives you a sense of the size of the city and gives you a idea of how to get your bearings once you´re back on terra firma.

So talking of solid ground...... back on land we went wandering around in order to find Andy´s - a world famous jazz club, and find it we did and not too be disappointed there we found some live music and a most hospitable innkeeper. The actual place itself has a lot of character and a nice atmosphere - as it wasn´t exactly busy I can´t say what it would be like if it was but I´d imagine that it would be excellent....maybe next time I´ll have to go back and check! After that out to Navy pier to take a stroll and feed the old bellies - if you haven´t been basically its a really long pier with a lot of shops, bars, etc along its whole length and is the usual venue for corporate events, award shows, expos, etc - that should give you an idea as to size. Not a bad place to while away a couple of hours and indulge in a cheezborger or 2!

That evening we went to Scott and Amy´s for dinner where I had the opportunity to catch up on a few of the last 13 years since I last visited and very pleasant it was too!

Over the next few days I took myself into the city and had a good look around, taking in some sightseeing tours and visiting a couple of galleries and the like and of course patronising only the finest drinking holes and shooting the breeze wih the random people you find yourself sitting beside - most memorable of which were 2 pilots who were supposed to fly in 8 hours and were in fact flying 3 sheets to the wind.....isn´t there supposed to be some kind of law against that?!? Funny boys though - as I wasn´t flying the next day I wasn´t that concerned and I never did hear of any accidents so I guess they were fine after all!

On the Saturday Scott took me to Wrigley Field to watch the Chicago Cubs who were being soundly beaten so we left to find some entertainment elsewhere only to find out later that they had made a miraculous comeback and we had missed the action - ah well we had some fun bar hopping before ending up in a blues club where a woman with an amazing voice was warbling away and plucking at her guitar strings like a genius - thanks to Scott for keeping me entertained, I had a great day! Next time the beer is on me!

Sunday we went up to Scott and Amy´s lake house and only got lost once - nice navigation Ed! Took a little spin around the lake on the speed boat admiring the houses on the front - some nice piles I have to say.....maybe someday when I settle down....(now I´ve got the Littlest Hobo in my head and I´m sure it will stick for the rest of the day!). On our way back we popped in to see Patrick and Kathy and the boys and watched a little football and attempted to again catch up on some of the last 13 years. All to soon it was time to leave and go back and pack the bags ready for a 5.00 start the next morning. Thanks Ed for being my taxi driver and host with the most!

This next bit is becoming far too common.....storm rolled in at the airport meaning a 1 hour delay while sitting on the tarmac - this then rolled on to my connecting flight in Detroit which I just missed and this resulted in a 6 hour delay before I got back to New York.....great no?

Back in New York for a couple of days Shelly very kindly put me up and fed and watered me. I also had the opportunity to meet up with Greg and Katy who I had met last year in New Zealand - good catching up with you guys, cheers for making the effort to come out even though you´re both very busy people! So that was North America - time to move on to Argentina and find the latin in me (after a 14hr delay at JFK of course - bloody american airlines, no explanation - nada! They didn´t even announce the delay, they just waited until it spread by word of mouth and they then had three or four hundred angry, pissed off, tired people on their hands - excellent customer service!) Moan over - next time news from Buenos Aires! x